It’s really difficult to buy perfume as a gift. In fact, I’d be inclined to tell you not to bother, except the other presents people go for on Valentine’s Day are usually lame (chocolates), perishable (chocolates and flowers) or just as tricky as scent (jewellery and lingerie).
One of the ways you can get it wrong is to go for this year’s biggest designer scent –usually whatever’s being heavily promoted at department stores. There are two problems with this: One, your partner will end up smelling like all her friends and colleagues, and she probably doesn’t want that; and two, many of these perfumes are generic, synthetic, too sweet, and/or bland.
You can’t go far wrong with mainstream brands like Chanel, Hermès and Guerlain, which always manage to produce original and beautiful scents. Another option is to buy from independent and artisan producers; they often work with noses who are given no brief or restrictions, so they have free rein to execute their most creative ideas. What they produce might not be to everyone’s taste (I recall a peculiar but kind of amazing Serge Lutens scent that smells like antiseptic), but it won’t be typical, and it might just blow her mind.
Niche brands can be hard to find in Vancouver, though. Some can be sniffed out at department stores and luxury boutiques, or at the Perfume Shoppe (757 W. Hastings), which has a great selection. Many are available online only, but you can order samples – free or for a small fee – so you’re able to try before you commit.
Here are some of my recent favourites.
Serge Lutens L’Incendiare (€450 at SergeLutens.com)
A light but smoky scent, in the French designer’s typically contradictory style. If it’s out of your budget, visit the Perfume Shoppe, which has a good selection of Lutens fragrances around the $150 mark.
Comme des Garçons Blackpepper ($145 at Neighbour and ShopNeighbour.com) and Grace ($145 at Nordstrom and Nordstrom.com)
I couldn’t choose between the two scents from this Japanese avant-garde designer, so I didn’t. First, there’s the spicy, woody Blackpepper; second, there’s the rose-based Grace, which was created with legendary stylist Grace Coddington.
Maison Francis Kurdjian Aqua Celestia (US$205 at FrancisKurkdjian.com)
The latest from this perfumer/olfactory artist has his signature clean aesthetic, with fresh mint, lime and blackcurrant notes.
7 Virtues Lisa Ray Jasmine of India ($70 at Hudson’s Bay and TheBay.com)
Created in conjunction with model/activist Lisa Ray, this has notes of orange blossom, cardamom and jasmine flower. Ingredients are sourced from India, from farmers who are paid a living wage. This is in line with the Canadian brand’s philosophy of ethical sourcing from troubled and impoverished regions.
Byredo Rose of No Man’s Land ($200 at Holt Renfrew and HoltRenfrew.com)
The packaging and fragrances from this Swedish brand are equally simple yet luxurious. This one has Turkish rose, pink pepper and white amber, to add sophistication.
CB I Hate Perfume Invisible Monster (US$110 at CBIHatePerfume.com)
US perfumer Christopher Brosius’s philosophy is that perfume is not an accessory, but the main event – art, not beauty. This scent is inspired by an episode of 1960s cartoon Jonny Quest, and has notes of To Yo Ran orchid, sumac, oakmoss and cedar.
Le Labo Thé Noir 29 ($245, at Nordstrom and Nordstrom.com)
An ode to our favourite drink, this has notes of black tea, bergamot, fig and bay leaves, with a tobacco-ey note in the drydown. Sensuous, but fresh, and absolutely lovely.
Escentric Molecules Molecule 01 ($149.99 at Goodge Place and GoodgePlace.com)
Scentless in the bottle, this reacts differently to everyone’s skin and has a single note, Iso E Super, known for its pheromone-like qualities. The unisex fragrance has been described as woody, clean, musky, powdery, floral, peppery and lemony – so, basically, no one can agree.
The Different Company Sublime Balkiss (€101 at TheDifferentCompany.com)
The twin inspirations for perfumer Celine Ellena’s beautiful chypre were 1940s Hollywood glamour and Ireland’s sweet rains. The result is floral – heavy on the violet, with notes of rose, lilac and heather – with the warmth of patchouli.
Aileen Lalor is the resident beauty expert at VITA Daily: Canada's premiere fashion and lifestyle newsletter. For more stories like this, head to the website and subscribe.
